othing in the country is ever quite predictable; the only thing to expect is the unexpected, which comes in many forms and will always want to sit next to you. India is a litmus test for many travellers - some are only too happy to leave, while others stay for a lifetime.

PASSPORT AND VISA
All travellers need a Visa to enter India. To apply for a visa, your passport must be valid for at least 6 months after your date of return. Most Indian visas are valid for 3 or 6 months. Cost is around $100. When completing your visa application it is best to state destination in India as simply Delhi.

Vaccinations
Being vaccinated is a personal decision. Some people prefer to be covered for everything that might happen while others prefer to avoid vaccinations completely. There are also homeopathic alternatives to conventional vaccinations. However for India and Nepal, vaccination for malaria, hepatitia A & B and tetanus is recommended.

HEALTH
It is strongly recommended that you obtain comprehensive travel and medical insurance before travelling.

You should seek medical advice about endemic diseases and take extra care with your water and food hygiene.

Dysentery and diarrhoea caused by eating and drinking contaminated food and drink can occur. Eat only recently prepared food that has been thoroughly cooked, and take sufficient liquids in the form of water that has been boiled, or sealed bottled drinks, to prevent dehydration.

Eat fruit you can peel such as bananas or oranges, or wash fruit such as grapes in bottled water.

Only drink bottled water and clean your teeth with it as well. It is available everywhere.

The Indians clearly differentiate between their "dirty" left hand and their "clean" right hand. They only wave or pass things such as money with their right hand.

Dengue fever is one of the infectious diseases endemic to India. It occurs each year in most parts (other than the mountain states) with a rise during and after the monsoon. You should protect yourself from mosquito bites and seek medical help in case of fever. Malaria on the other hand is only common in the depths of Rajistan and in isolated areas after the monsoon season.

What to do if you get diarrhoea.

• Drink plenty of water and add electrolyte powder if it lasts for a couple of days
• Drink lassi, a yoghurt based drink which restores your normal gut bacteria
• Have a little plain rice. Avoid the temptation to eat lots even if you are very hungry
• Don't take Lomotil or Immodium. If you have a bug, you are better off expelling it, and these drugs slow the bowl and thus retain the nasty things

USEFUL THINGS TO PACK
Ladies, please bear in mind when packing your bags is that India is a very modest country and the women cover up. It's best to avoid low cut dresses or sleeveless tops, shorts and see-through materials.

• A torch, as the electricity often goes on and off at night.
• Mosquito repellent, especially for Delhi
• Tea tree oil for any disinfectant needs
• Dettol Wipes or Wet Ones to clean your hands before eating, especially while travelling on trains etc.
• Slip on shoes can be useful.
• A basic first aid kit. In India you can purchase most medical requirements easily over the counter. Essential oils can be nice for long journeys, eg ginger oil for nausea, lemon oil for clearing the head in big cities.
• Tampons (difficult to find in India)
• Earplugs for light sleepers (barking, fighting dogs etc seem to be a standard nocturnal feature of most places in India)
• Bring plenty of film and camera batteries. Standard film can be found although not close to the monastery. Advanced System Film is not readily available in India. Bring blank videocassettes with you.
• Sunscreen
• The weather could be quite cool at night so bring a warm jacket or thermals.

THINGS TO BE CAREFUL OF

Beware of the risk of street crime and take personal security measures including:

• Taking particular care to safeguard your passport and credit/ATM cards, particularly when travelling by bus and train. Security lock your suitcases and bags.
  
• Not accepting food from strangers. There have been occasional reports of travellers being drugged and robbed on trains.
  
• Avoiding walking alone in isolated spots in the popular tourist areas after dark. There have been incidents of sexual assaults against women in Delhi and outside Mc Cleod Gange. Female travellers are advised to observe and respect local dress and customs and to take particular care.
  
• It's better not to touch dogs and cats as they usually haven't been dewormed and dog bites can be very dangerous in India.
  
• Photocopy your passport, visa, travellers cheques serial numbers and tickets in case you are unlucky enough to lose them. It will greatly assist in their replacement.

MONEY
Changing money can be a very time consuming task and not always easy to do as the banking hours are short and can be erratic. You may be advised by your bank at home to put money on your credit card and then withdraw it in India. DO NOT do this, as there are very few places outside large cities to withdraw money on a credit card. Australian dollars can be changed at the airport, in central Delhi or at Maj Nu Ka Tilla, the Tibetan refugee settlement.

BEGGARS. WHAT TO DO???
Unfortunately there are many people in need in India but if you give to the beggars more than you will be surrounded by more than you bargained for. India is a resourceful country where people take care of each other by feeding the poor and having many welfare programs run by temples and churches.

If you see someone genuinely in need buy them some fruit or a cup of tea. If they turn it down and ask for cash they are probably not genuine and working in one of the professional begging cartels that exploit tourist spots.

COMMUNICATIONS
To make a call you need to go to a STD/ISD shop where the phone has a meter attached. At the end of the call you pay the person who runs the shop. It is not possible to make a reverse charge phone call from a phone booth in India. Aif you are speaking on the line you will be charged even if you have dialled a Telstra PIN code or gone through an Australian operator.

Faxes can also be sent from many STD booths. However if the transmission fails and the Fax has to be re-sent, you must pay the full amount on the meter.

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